Utah Biodiesel Supply Blog

Helping You Make Great Biodiesel!

Biodiesel Glycerin – Can you really make soap out of it?

This article is written by Rick Knicely from the Knice-N-Clean Soap Company. He’s the author of Making Biodiesel Soaps and is a leading expert on producing high quality, commercial grade soaps from biodiesel glycerin.

If you are like the rest of us that make biodiesel, your biodiesel glycerin (BDG) may be piling up adding to the proverbial “glycerin lake”.

I’m sure at one point or another you thought to yourself, “What the heck am I going to do with all this glycerin”?!

The Answer? Make Soap!

You may be thinking or have heard “You can’t make soap from glycerin, that’s impossible!” And technically, that is true — pure glycerin cannot be made into soap. However, glycerin is the byproduct of soap making and is present in most “all natural” soaps.

So, What gives? Why can we use our BDG to make soap?
In reality BDG is not pure glycerin. It has what I like to call “Saponifiable Elements” left over from the biodiesel production process. These saponifiable elements are simply ingredients in the BDG that can participate in saponification or, put another way, there’s stuff in the glycerin that can be turned into soap!

These ingredients may include Mono-glycerides, Di-glycerides, Unreacted Oil and/or biodiesel. In addition to saponifiable elements, BDG already contains soaps that were created during the biodiesel production process.

You can see this in the following photo.

These are biodiesel glycerin samples from several different biodiesel batches that have had the saponifiable ingredients separated from the glycerin. The top layer is everything that can be turned into soap and the bottom layer is the glycerin. As you can see, not all BDG is the same.

So if you think about it, in a way, our BDG is already soap. You can think of it as just a really bad batch of soap, one that is undersaponified and unbalanced. It needs to be “Re-Batched”.

During the process of rebatching your BDG into soap, you might also want to think about adding other ingredients to add lather or hardness to better balance the soap you make. In the next section, we’ll show you how!

SPECIAL NOTE:
The methanol must be removed from your BDG prior to using it to make soap that will come into contact with a person or animal.

SAP VALUE
The first thing required before reacting your BDG into soap is to work out something called a saponification value (SAP) value. This will tell you how much sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH) you will need to fully saponify your BDG.

A SAP value is important for a number of reasons. First and foremost, it keeps you from making caustic hot soap which can range from a minor irritant to just plain dangerous. Secondly, it will ensure that all of the ingredients in the BDG are reacted into soap, otherwise you can end up with a soap that feels oily and cleans poorly. Finally the SAP value will take the guess work out of the process and allow you to make consistent soaps, batch after batch.

By having a SAP value your BDG is now just another ingredient in the soap making process. You can use it to formulate recipes with other ingredients or even perform some advanced soapmaking techniques such as superfatting your bar soap or creating fully transparent liquid soap.

If you have ever made bar soap from BDG you may have found that it can be fairly soft unless the oil you used to make your biodiesel came from saturated oils such as coconut, lard, tallow or hydrogenated vegetable oil. Also, both bar and liquid BDG soaps can benefit from adding ingredients to help them lather better. Some may say that lather is just eye candy for cleaning but that is not totally true. It’s true that our BDG soaps clean extremely well out of the box, but with extra lather they can actually perform better too. This is because the bubbles formed by the lather have a lifting effect on the dirt and make it easier to wash away during the cleaning process.

This is where balancing your soap comes in. By adding other whole oils or fatty acids you can add the missing properties to your BDG soaps to create the desired soap you want to create. For hardening bar soaps you might think about using coconut oil, palm kernel oil, lard, tallow, stearic acid and/or palmitic acid. To add lather to both your bar and liquid soaps you might think about using coconut oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, myristic acid and/or lauric acid.

To assist in the BDG soaping process and to make it a bit easier to make quality BDG soaps you can use the KNC SAP process outlined on my blog. Another tool you can use is the KNC Soap Calculator which will help you formulate a balanced recipe for your BDG that will give you a nice firm bar soap and/or bar and liquid soap with tons of lather. To get you started we have several basic BDG soap recipes on our website along with tons of useful information to make your BDG soaping a success!

We also have published a great book, called Making Biodiesel Soaps that covers the ins & outs of making great soaps from biodiesel glycerin. We even offer a Biodiesel Glycerin Soap Making Kit to help you get started! We’ve had several people use our book and kits to get started and some have even created successful small business selling the soaps they make!

So, what are you waiting for? Now’s a great time to start getting rid of that “glycerin lake” sitting out back & turning it into not only something worthwhile to clean with but possibly even a marketable product!

Happy soaping! :)

Customer Spotlight: Biodiesel plant in Philippines

Recently I had a chance to visit with one of our awesome customers that runs a commercial Biodiesel plant in the Philippines. The company is called Eway54 Ecodiesel and they make Biodiesel from used cooking oil that they collect locally. Ricky Cuenca, their director of Oversea’s Networks (read–he sources oil from all over), is our contact for their Biodiesel facility and shared some cool information about their plant recently.

Plant History:
They started the Biodiesel plant in October 2008 right before the big drop in oil prices. Because of the timing, they said that it really helped them understand the volatility of the oil market & made them focus on being as efficient as possible in the plant.

The plant started out making 50 gallons a day but is now up to 3,000 to 4,000 gallons a week depending on how much oil they’re able to collect. On average they collect about 4,000 gallons of oil locally but are working on getting access to even more oil (hence Ricky looking to source oil from other countries as oil is extremely competitive to come by in the Philippines).

Growing Like Crazy
They currently have extremely high demand for the Biodiesel they produce so they’re looking to ramp up to being able to produce 25,000 gallons by mid June 2012 and then depending on technology and feedstock availability, they would like to be able to one day produce up to 100,000 gallons a month.


How It All Got Started
Behind every Biodiesel plant is an interesting story and Eway’s is no different. Ricky said that he started the plant back in 2008 due to losing his job in the US. He wanted to learn something that he could do with his bare hands, get dirty & learn from the ground up and making fuel from Vegetable Oil fascinated him. From there it became a calling, a spiritual mission if you will, that he feels he was led to by the man above based on circumstances and situations that have allowed him to grow it to where it is today. And grow it has! Ricky now has more than 20 people involved in Collecting Oil, Logistics, Production, and Administration keeping the plant going.


To produce the Biodiesel, they use common farm tanks; think home-brewing on steroids! They perform a 2 stage base/base process, water wash the Biodiesel and dry it out all in heavy duty cone bottom HDPE tanks with pumps connected to everything. The tanks & pumps were imported from the US and built into the plant they use today. As they continue to grow, they’re continuing to explore new ways to produce the fuel more efficiently, in a better manner, and keep quality high!

What Their Biodiesel Powers

Most of Ricky’s clients are running B100 in a variety of vehicles from the Philippine Jeepney to cars & trucks. The owners of the local Jeepney’s absolutely LOVE the Biodiesel! The Biodiesel cleaned up the black smoke they used to belch and it even keeps the Jeepney’s cleaner! Ricky say’s it’s one of the gratifying parts of supplying Biodiesel locally; knowing that it’s contributing to cleaning up the air in the cities! One of the most cool vehicles they fueled was a 157 foot yacht. They blended the Biodiesel to 20% and filled it on up!

We look forward to hearing more about their Biodiesel success story! If you’d like to learn more about them, stop by their website at http://www.eway54.com

Check out this great promotional video they just released!

Check out this great article that was written about their operation!

Be sure & check out all the great pictures they sent in below!

Customer Spotlight: College of Southern Idaho

Recently we heard about a really cool project going on at the College of Southern Idaho. They have a renewable energy project there that involved creating a renewable energy trailer complete with wind power, solar, Biodiesel, and other renewable educational displays.


The truck that pulls it also runs on Biodiesel as well!

They’re traveling all across Idaho to various events to showcase what can be done with renewable energy. Inside the trailer are lots of great educational displays to help visitors learn how they can create sustainable solutions to their energy needs.

Another cool part of the project is that the oil they’re using comes from crops on their campus farm. They’re even getting ready to plant Flaxseed, Safflower, Mustard, and Canola seeds for their next crop!

Check out their awesome brochure as well!
TruckTrailerBrochure

You can learn more about their Environmental Technology program by clicking here

You can see all the great pictures they sent our way below.

Customer Spotlight: BioPro 380 Customer In Utah

Check out this sweet setup! Kevin lives in Utah and has been making Biodiesel since 2005. We built his very first processor, a double-water heater Appleseed with 4 poly barrel wash tanks. He made lots of batches in it, but needed something more automated and bigger.

He had a chance to test drive our BioPro 190 and loved it, but found he needed something even bigger.

So, a few years back he purchased one of the very first BioPro 380′s ever made and has been making fuel with them ever since!

Very early on he outgrew his garage and moved into a commercial space. He’s since moved a couple more times (each time getting into a better space) and now has a great commercial space that’s ideal for making lots of Biodiesel!

Check out this tour we did of his place recently!

He initially got started making Biodiesel to fuel his fleet of pickup trucks that he uses in his construction business. He’s pretty fond of Duramax pickups as they do exceptionally well on Biodiesel and we couldn’t agree more.

Be sure & check out the pickup truck in the video! It’s a 2007 pre-emissions Duramax that’s been using B100 since it was new.

To collect oil, Kevin added a lift-gate to the back of his pickup. We went with him a few years back on one of his oil collection runs & shot some great pictures of it in action. Click here to see them

Once the oil is back at the shop, he uses the same lift-gate to filter the oil through our 400 Micron Drum Strainers. Click here to see him filtering the oil

To transfer oil around his shop, he uses an inexpensive sump pump connected to a pipe. He’s gone through a couple of them over the years, but he finds that they work extremely well and are fairly inexpensive to build & replace.

Once the Biodiesel is produced, he found a really cool way to dispose of the glycerin! A local waste water treatment facility agreed to take it off his hands. He hauls it there in 55 gallon barrels and they then add it to their anaerobic digester. They found that it increased the anaerobic activity, which benefited their operation because they recover the methane gas produced and power on site generators with it. Click here to see a typical glycerin drop off

Over the years, Kevin figures he’s produced in excess of 50,000 gallons of Biodiesel. Much of which was burned in his fleet of Duramax pickups. Which just goes to show that with a little work & ingenuity, you can make lots of Biodiesel on a very small scale!

Customer Spotlight: Ogden High School Biodiesel Jet Engine

Recently we had a chance to visit Ogden High School in Ogden, Utah to see a really cool Biodiesel project they’d been working on. Roger Snow, the drafting teacher there, has been working with a group of students to teach them all about Biodiesel.


The class had the opportunity to make several Biodiesel batches and test them for various quality measures. They checked the oil for titration, water content, reacted mini batches and performed Biodiesel conversion testing and then experimented with dry washing and water washing the small batches to see which one came out the best.

Now for the really cool part! They didn’t just stop at making Biodiesel, they wanted to test the Biodiesel out in something that normally burns diesel fuel. In this case, that something would be a jet engine. Yes. You read right! A JET ENGINE!!!

Roger purchased a P80SE minature jet engine from Jetcat USA that could be run on kerosene or jet fuel. The goal was to see if they could fire it on Biodiesel and if they could, they would then measure several things as it ran.

In particular, they measured EGT’s (Exhaust Gas Temperature) and efficiency. Efficiency was measured by voltage the engine put out by turning a generator in the engine.

We had a chance to come & see the experiment on one of the days they fired the engine and were literally “blown away” by the coolness factor of it all!

We all stuck our protective hearing gear on, Roger fired it up, and we let it spin up. It was so cool!!! The thing sounded just like a regular jet engine too. Extremely loud!!!

They tested B50 with Kerosene and B20 with Kerosene. The B50 caused a flame-out in the engine, but the B20 was able to keep the engine running.

In an earlier test they found that they could run up to B50 with jet fuel without any problem.

Talk about one heck of a cool school project! The kids loved it, the administrators were impressed, and I was thrilled to be invited and watch it fire up on Biodiesel!

So, if you’re looking for that really cool project for Biodiesel, Odgen High just raised the bar a notch! Congratulations to Roger and his class for the impressive work they did!

Click on the pictures below to see all the fun!

Building An Oil Dewatering Tank From A 55 Gallon Drum

One of the easiest ways to remove water from oil is to heat & circulate it.

This can be done in a number of ways, but a really easy method for doing it is to build a simple dewatering tank using a 55 gallon drum, a transfer pump, a heater, and a spraying nozzle.

The basic theory is that spraying heated oil in a thin film will help the water to more easily evaporate. This creates a large surface area for the water to escape from the oil (air on both sides of the thin film) and with the oil heated, the water can more easily escape.

To accomplish this, you’ll want a spray nozzle that creates as fine of a film of oil as possible but doesn’t turn the oil into a mist. While misting the oil will work, it’s a sure way to also cover the rest of your work area with oil.

Making The Spray
To create the oil film, you can cut a notch out of a pipe and cap the end and run the heated oil through the pipe, or you can purchase pre-built nozzles, such as our Dry Pro Nozzle. The goal is to simply make a fan like spray in as wide of a pattern as possible.

Heating The Drum
The next step is to be able to safely heat the oil in the drum. We’ve seen everything from drop in bucket heaters, to heater spears (see Rilla Biofuels for a sweet, pre-built inline heater), to inline heaters that the oil circulates past on it’s way to the nozzle. But one of the safest methods is to attach a band heater to the outside of the drum.

This keeps the heating element away from the oil and also has the added benefit of evenly distributing the heat through the oil. Basically, you just need a reliable way to heat the oil up in the drum before it starts being circulated.

Circulating The Oil
Once the oil is heated, it’ll need to be circulated through the nozzle. One of the easiest ways to do this is to weld a fitting to the bottom of a drum (or attach a bulk-head fitting) and attach a transfer pump to the drum to pump the heated oil up to the nozzle.

The pump can be pretty much anything available. We find the inexpensive 1″ transfer pumps work really well. For piping, we recommend using black steel as it’s heat resistant and won’t break on you as easily as PVC Pipe or clear tubing might.

Plumbing The Tank
Nothing special here. You just need to connect the barrel to the pump, the pump to pipe, and the pipe to the nozzle as close to the top of the drum as possible.

Here’s a basic layout we came up with that uses as little plumbing as possible, but you can use whatever works best for you:

Once you get it all plumbed up, give it a test with some water to make sure the plumbing is all sealed up (water is a lot easier to clean up than an oil leak). Once you’re leak-proof, you’re ready to go.

We do recommend adding a by-pass valve though as we show in the diagram. This allows you to control how aggressively your spray nozzle spray’s and also makes a handy way to transfer the oil out of the tank.

Here’s a link to our step-by-step guide on building one of these tanks:
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/dryingtankassembly.php

Instructions For Using The Tank
1) Fill the tank up about 2/3rds of the way full
2) Turn on the heater and bring the oil temperature up to at least 100 deg. F
– The hotter you can get the oil, the faster it will dry
3) Turn on the pump and start circulating the oil

How Fast It Dry’s
If your oil is REALLY wet (flunks a hot pan test something terrible), then it can take several hours to dry. But if it’s just slightly wet, usually 2-6 hours can get the job done. If the ambient room temperature is low (ie. below 60 deg. F) or if it’s really humid, it can take longer to dry, but given enough time, it’ll dry the oil out.

Tips & Tricks
- Adjust the spray of the oil so that it’s not spraying too hard to cause oil to come out of the drum (use the by-pass valve)
- Place a fan next to the drum & blow air ACROSS the top of the drum (not into the drum & not sucking out of the drum, but across the top).
- This creates a low air pressure above the drum and the moisture will get sucked up & blown away faster
- Plumb a temperature gauge into the plumbing. Usually just above the pump or just before it goes into the tank are ideal spots.

Complete Kits
We offer complete kits with everything in them but the drum if you don’t feel like hitting the local hardware store.
Here’s the link:
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/dryingtank.php

Four Test Kits Every Biodieseler Should Own

Ever since we started helping folks make Biodiesel, one thing has remained the same. If you want to make a quality batch of Biodiesel, you need to test your batch at various points along the way to ensure everything is going as planned. By doing the proper tests, you’ll be able to catch any problems and solve them before they become big headaches.

With this testing in mind, below is a list of the 4 test kits we think every small scale Biodiesel producer should have on hand and use on a regular basis. When used consistently, these tests will allow you to ensure that you’re making great Biodiesel, batch after batch.

1) Water Test Kit
When reacting Biodiesel from organic oils, one of the biggest enemies of a successful reaction is having too much water in the oil. The water mixes with the catalyst and oil to form soap instead of making Biodiesel. Get too much water in the mix and you can end up with a nasty batch of soap, lots of unreacted oil, and a small amount of Biodiesel & glycerin.

To avoid this problem, the oil should be tested for water. Our favorite kit for water testing is our Deluxe Water Test Kit.

It uses a reagent called calcium hydride inside a small pressure vessel. A sample of oil is added to the vessel along with the reagent and solvent. If water is present, the reagent reacts with it forming a gas. The gas generates pressure which then registers on the gauge. The reading can then be converted into parts per million of water in the oil which lets you know if there’s too much water.

The kit is easy to use and gives extremely accurate results. It can be used on pretty much any oil including the vegetable oil we most commonly make Biodiesel out of. It can also be used to test the finished Biodiesel product to ensure that it’s dry as well. It’s in use at several commercial Biodiesel facilities, schools, businesses, and small homebrewing operations across the world. It’s accurate down to 50 ppm (0.005%) making it ideal for testing oil and Biodiesel.

Watch The Kit In Action!

2) Oil Titration Kit
When we make Biodiesel, it’s important to know how much catalyst should be added. Add too little and the reaction won’t go to completion. Overdo it and you can end up with excess soap which can cause problems when the fuel is water washed or dry washed.

To identify just how much catalyst should be used, we recommend using an oil titration kit. It uses a mixture of isopropyl alcohol, titration solution, and a pH indicator to identify what an oil’s titration value is. This value is then used to figure out the right amount of catalyst required.

We offer three titration kits on our site. For those just starting out, pick up the Basic or Deluxe Titration Kit. If you already have the chemicals needed but lack the labware, then our Mini Titration Kit is perfect! All three come with detailed instructions for performing a titration and figuring out how much catalyst you’ll need. We also have some handy conversion factors listed to let you identify an approximate free fatty acid level in your oil too!

See How To Perform An Oil Titration!

3) Biodiesel Conversion Test Kit
Commonly known as the 27/3 or 3/27 test, this test allows you to see if the oil you reacted into Biodiesel is truly well reacted. To perform the test, you add 3 mL of Biodiesel to 27 mL of methanol. Both the methanol and Biodiesel need to be between 68° F and 72° F for the test to be accurate. If the Biodiesel completely dissolves into the methanol, then there’s a high likelihood that the batch is well reacted and may pass the ASTM standard for Total & Free Glycerin.

To make it easy to perform this test, our Biodiesel Conversion Test Kits includes snap top vials. syringes, and our Deluxe Biodiesel Conversion Test Kit even includes a handy bottle to keep your methanol in. While all the tests we discuss here are important, if you had to choose one test to perform, this would be it. We perform it religiously on every batch of Biodiesel we make and recommend you do the same.
Learn more about how the test works.

See How The 3/27 Test Works!

4) Biodiesel Soap Test Kit
One of the byproducts produced when we react oil into Biodiesel is soap. Even with oil that titrates extremely low, there will always be a bit of soap made. The soap is considered a contaminant and if not removed can plug up fuel filters and leave deposits inside diesel engines.

Soap can be removed from Biodiesel in a number of ways including water washing, dry washing, or even bubbling and settling. No matter which way is utilized, it’s important that the washed Biodiesel be tested to see if enough of the soap has been removed.

To make this process simple, we’ve created soap test kits that have everything required to perform a soap test. They include bromophenol blue, hydrochloric acid, isopropyl alcohol, specialized glass pipettes, and some even offer a portable magnetic stirrer that we highly recommend using when soap testing.

All the tests includes detailed instructions for measuring the soap content in Biodiesel in parts per million. When used according to the instructions, you’ll be able to easily identify if you’ve washed your Biodiesel well enough or if you need to continue washing a little more.

See How To Perform A Soap Test!

And Possibly One More…
Methanol Purity Test Kit

If you’re methanol is old, or it’s been left unsealed for a while, or you’re using recovered methanol from Biodiesel or Biodiesel glycerin, then we strongly recommend checking it’s purity.

This is because the typical contaminant in methanol is water. And, like we mentioned before with our water test kit, water in the Biodiesel reaction can really mess things up.

To make it easy to test methanol, we offer simple to use methanol purity test kits. These kits include a hydrometer, an extremely accurate thermometer, a glass cylinder perfectly sized for methanol testing, a calculator, and detailed instructions for performing the test. You can also purchase a kit with a protective carrying case, testing stand and testing clamp.

Watch A Methanol Purity Test!

Links To Test Kits
- Deluxe Water Test Kit
- Oil Titration Kits
- Biodiesel Conversion Test Kits
- Biodiesel Soap Test Kits
- Methanol Purity Test Kits

Additional Information
Click Here for details on how to perform all of these tests as well as what test results should be!

Happy Brewing!
Utah Biodiesel Supply

US Diesel Prices at record high’s for time of year

Lately I’ve been seeing lots of media stories about the high price of gasoline. Basically the line is that we’re nearing record highs. So, is this just rhetoric from the media or are they serious? Turns out they’re right!

I went & pulled data from the US Energy Information Administration (division of the Department of Energy) and charted historical average diesel prices from clear back to 1994. The data pulled represents average diesel prices taken weekly over several years. The last data point is for 2/12/2012 at $3.94/gallon.

Record high diesel prices


(click the chart to see it full size)

And….guess what? It IS a record! Diesel has never been this high at this time of year in the United States…EVER! The closest it got was back in February 2008 when during the same week (ending Feb. 11, 2008), it was $3.28/gallon.

Aren’t you glad you make Biodiesel?

New Product Coming: Monster Pump Adapter Plates!

UPDATE:
The pump adapter heads are now available!
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/gearpumpmount.php

We’ve been working with our custom fabricator to develop a really cool adapter plate that will allow you to connect a gas or diesel motor to one of our cool monster pump heads!

We’ve had a customer experimenting with one and they’re absolutely loving it! It takes an already awesome pump head and turns it into an even faster transfer pump that no longer requires electric power on site!

We’ll have these up on the site shortly for sale but until then, check out these awesome pictures of the plate!

Improving Bar Soaps Made From Biodiesel Glycerin

This article is written by Rick Knicely from the Knice-N-Clean Soap Company. He’s the author of Making Biodiesel Soaps and is a leading expert on producing high quality, commercial grade soaps from biodiesel glycerin.

Improving Bar Soaps Made From Biodiesel Glycerin
- by Rick Knicely

Have you ever wondered how your biodiesel production process can affect the soap you make from the remaining biodiesel glycerin (BDG)?

If you have high titration oils you might be thinking about acid esterification to lower the titration of your oil and give you a higher yield of biodiesel. Well if you are a soaper this can also help you make better bar soap!

The BDG obtained after biodiesel production is a soup of byproducts and leftovers. These include methanol, biodiesel, soap and glycerin and may include mono-glycerides, di-glycerides, excess caustic and water.

NOTE: The methanol must be removed from your BDG prior to using it to make soap that will come into contact with a person or animal.

The biodiesel, di-glycerides and mono-glycerides can all be turned into soaps. I like to call these “saponifiable elements” within the BDG. When you create a SAP value for your BDG you are working out what percentage of the BDG is saponifiable. From that you work out how much caustic it will take to turn the saponifiables into soaps. So if you were to add up all of the soaps and compare that to how much glycerin there is you can work out what’s called the “Glycerin Ratio”.

The glycerin ratio of BDG can be all over the map, but typically with oil that titrates from 3 to 6, the ratio is 30%-50% soaps and the rest is glycerin. When the titration of your oil starts to climb so does the percentage of soaps that end up in the BDG.

If you are using lard, tallow, coconut oil, palm kernel oil or palm oil this can be a good thing because your soap will end up hard right out of the box. However, if you are like most of the rest of us and are using oils like soy, canola, corn or any other unsaturated oil, the excess soaps can cause your bars to be soft and rubbery. So you can see why it might be a good idea to lower your glycerin ratio as much as possible.

So why do these oils make for a soft rubbery bar of soap?

It has to do with the fatty acid makeup of the oils. When you are talking about making soap from oils there are 7 main fatty acids. Stearic Acid, Palmetic Acid, Myristic Acid, Lauric acid, Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid and Ricinoleic Acid.

Stearic Acid, palmetic acid, lauric acid and myristic acid are all saturated fatty acids and will make a hard bar of soap. Oleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid and will make a softer bar of soap that can get a bit harder with time. Ricinoleic acid is also an unsaturated fatty acid that will make a softer bar of soap. Linoleic is a polyunsaturated fatty acid which makes for a very soft bar of soap.

So let’s have a look at the fatty acid profile of the most common unsaturated oils that we like to use to make our biodiesel from. These “soft” properties are also reflected in the biodiesel produced from these oils making biodiesel that has a lower cloud point.

Unsaturated Oils Used In Biodiesel Production

Canola Oil
Oleic 32%
Linoleic 15%
Palmitic 1%
Soybean Oil
Linoleic 45-53%
Oleic 22-27%
Palmitic 9-12%
Stearic 4-6%
Corn Oil
Linoleic 45-46%
Oleic 28-37%
Palmitic 12-14%
Stearic 2-3%
Peanut Oil
Oleic 46%
Linoleic 34%
Palmitic 10%
Stearic 2-3%

You can see that all of these oils are really high in the “soft” soap fatty acids and really low in the “hard” soap fatty acids.

So when you use acid esterification to lower the titration of your oil you are also lowering the percentage of soaps in the glycerin ratio of your BDG.

The soap will be a bit harder “out of the box” but can still benefit from adding some hardening ingredients. However the amount you will need to use will be significanly less than if you had not used acid esterifcation to lower the titration of your oil.

The trick to a super bar of soap is balancing the recipe. The bar should be nice and hard with both quick and long lasting lather and some conditioning properties. The linoleic and oleic acids are great fatty acids for conditioning but not so good for lather or hardness. But it still needs something to make it harder and give it a nice lather.

What ingredients can help with that?

Saturated oils high in myristic acid or lauric acid will add the quick lather you are used to and oils high in stearic acid or palmetic acid will add hardness and long lasting lather.

So lets have a look at some of the saturated fats or oils that can help to add hardness and lather to your BDG soaps.

Saturated Oil Used To Improve BDG Bar Soaps

Coconut Oil
Lauric 39-54%
Myristic 15-23%
Palmetic 6-11%
Oleic 4-11%
Stearic 1-4%
Linoleic 1-2%
Palm Kernel Oil
Lauric 47%
Oleic 18%
Myristic 14%
Palmetic 9%
Palm Oil
Palmetic 9%
Oleic 18%
Lauric 47%
Linoleic 9-11%
Stearic 4-5%
Iodine 45-57%
Shea Butter
Oleic 40-55%
Stearic 35-45%
Linoleic 3-8%
Palmetic 3-7%
Tallow
Oleic 37-43%
Palmetic 24-32%
Stearic 20-25%
Myristic 3-6%
Linoleic 2-3%
Lard
Oleic 46%
Palmetic 28%
Stearic 13%
Linoleic 6%
Myristic 1%

You can see that these ingredients are really high in the fatty acids that help add lather and harden bar soaps.

Stearic acid, palmetic acid, myristic acid and lauric acid are all available in flakes and can be used in addition to or in place of the saturated oils to better tailor your recipe.

If you think about it our BDG is really just a bad batch of soap. One that is poorly saponified and unbalanced. The SAP value takes care of saponification. And by lowering the glycerin ratio and adding a percentage of saturated fats, oils and/or fatty acids you can balance the BDG soap recipe and make a super bar of soap!

Knice and Clean Soap

Give It A Try!
Want to give some of these great suggestions a try? The Knice-n-Clean Soap Company offers a wide variety of the different soap making additives mentioned above right on their website! Click here to see their great selection!

While there, be sure to check out all their great soap making recipes for making various kinds of unique biodiesel glycerin soaps. You can also build your own custom soap recipe using their cool soap recipe calculator!

Learn more about making biodiesel glycerin soaps in Ricks e-book, Making Biodiesel Soaps, available right on our website!